CHAIN WEAVING

Students will learn how to create a chain with wire, practice tooling techniques with wire, pliers, and snips, make a clasp, and document their work using commercial photography techniques.

This unit has four parts: design, prototype, chain weaving and clasp for final project, and documentation of the finished work.

Overview Unit Goal

Composition Concepts

  • Volume
  • Pattern
  • Variety & Unity
  • Functionality (size, clasp, flexibility)

Technical Skills

  • Coiling
  • Sawing
  • Bending
  • Soldering (optional)

Tools & Supplies

  • Rod or dowel
  • Wire 
  • Pliers (round nose, needle nose)
  • Wire Snips
  • Jewelry Saw
  • Soldering Station

Composition Concepts

Introduction to Weaving Chains

Technical Skills

BYZANTINE CHAIN - AR 3.5
PERSIAN CHAIN - AR 5.5
BARREL WEAVE - AR 4
Barrel Weave (Video)
ROUND MAIL - AR 4
Round Chainmail Chain (video)
Box Weave (Video) - AR 5
Candy Cane Chain (Video) - harder
Electroplating Metal - coating one metal with another metal
Anodizing Metal - Changing the color of metal
Anodizing Colors per 9V Battery (Video)
Anodizing Science (Video)

Open & Close a Jump Ring

Use two pliers to open a jump ring by twisting the ends apart. Do not pull them away from each other. Twist the ring ends back together by pushing the ends slightly past close.

Tools & Supplies

Research
  • iPad
  • Internet
Design
  • Resource Book
  • Pencil
  • Design concepts (chain weaves)
  • Calipers (for measuring wire)
  • Wire Examples
Prototype
  • Two pliers
  • Wire
  • Rod 
  • Vise
  • Jewelry Saw
  • Saw Blade
  • Burr Life
Chain
  • Round Nose Pliers
  • Chain Nose Pliers
  • Wire (gauge should match wire gauge from plan WG)
  • Rod (should match the inner diameter from plan ID)
  • Vise
  • Jewelry Saw
  • Saw Blade
  • Burr Life
Clasp
  • Design clasp style
  • Cut, hammer, & form wire to create clasp hook and ring
  • Optional: solder hook closure around chain
Documentation
  • iPad or phone camera
  • Photo cube
  • Reflection & Grading Criteria Sheet
  • Email

Metal Types

Picture
COPPER
Picture
BRASS
Picture
NICKEL
Picture
ALUMINUM
Picture
ANODIZED ALUMINUM TURQUOISE
Picture
ANODIZED ALUMINUM GREEN
Picture
ANODIZED ALUMINUM BLACK
ANODIZED ALUMINUM:
​BLACK, GREEN, TURQUOISE, BLUE, PURPLE, RED, ORANGE, YELLOW, SILVER
If a person wanted to anodize metal (because they want it to be a non-metal color), they would use titanium, niobium, or aluminum wire to make the jump rings. Anodizing titanium is a one step process, whereas aluminum anodizing is two steps (anodizing and then dying). It does take a few steps to complete the anodizing/dying process, so if you choose that route, make sure you give yourself enough time to complete it. There are also some pre-anodized aluminum rings and wire available in a few colors. 

How Much Does Metal Cost?

Metal prices are set on the metals market and prices fluctuate, but here are some examples. For this project students will need about 7 feet of wire to make one 8" chain and two 2" prototypes. You buy wire in spools based on the gauge - the list below is for 18 gauge round wire by metal type.
Aluminum - 300 ft spool - $23 : 55¢ per student
Copper - 200 ft spool - $23 : 80¢ per student
Brass - 200 ft spool - $36 : $1.26 per student
Nickel - 200 ft spool - $48 : $1.68 per student
Titanium - 20 ft spool - $14 : $5 per chain (yikes! out of our school budget)
Sterling Silver - 10 ft - $26 : $18 per chain
Niobium - 10 ft spool - $27 : $19 per chain
Gold - 10 ft spool - $938 : $657 per chain
Platinum - 10 ft spool - $1901: $1331 per chain

Unit Components

1. RESEARCH - bracelet techniques
2. DRAW DESIGN - plan your bracelet design
3. PROTOTYPE - practice making two different chain types
4. CHAIN - make the chain long enough for a bracelet or necklace
4. CLASP - make the chain functional by creating a clasp
5. DOCUMENTING - photos, reflection, email, & flip video

Research

Research these chain types (Technical skills videos can be found above):
  • ​Byzantine Chain [easy]
  • Persian Chain [easy]
  • Barrel Weave Chain [medium]
  • Round Chainmail Chain [medium]
  • Candy Cane Chain [harder]
​Choose the style bracelet you wish to make AND metal type you wish to use

Drawing
  • Based on the bracelet design ideas you researched, draw out the design for your bracelet
  • Draw the clasp type and end cap style you are interested in
  • Label your drawing: 
    • TECHNIQUE FOR CHAIN (ex: Byzantine, Persian, Round Chainmail, etc.)
    • TYPE OF CLASP (ex: hook & loop clasp, double hook & loop clasp)
    • LIST OF MATERIALS (gauge and length of wire and other materials needed)
  • Determine the length of the chain you will make and therefore how much material you will need to create your design. You should make a minimum of 7 inches, though a standard bracelet length is 7-9 inches. You can choose to make a necklace, of which a common short chain would run 18 inches in length. You can use your prototype to determine how many links you will need for 1 inch and then can extrapolate from there.
  • Next to the picture of your design in your resource book, write down the following: Aspect Ratio, Wire Gauge, Inner Diameter for your chain.
  • Watch the videos & decide on technique
  • Measurements (determine the gauge of the metal and diameter of the ring to have the right Aspect Ratio)
    • Aspect Ratio (AR) = Inner Diameter (ID) ÷ Wire Gauge (WG)
    • AR x WG = ID
    • The aspect ratio is specific to the weave and is something you can look up. The wire gauge is listed on the spool of wire or use calipers to measure it. Once you have those two numbers you can do the math to figure out what size ring you need to make.

Prototype

  • Make 2 inches of chain in one design, then make 2 inches of chain in a different design or in a different aspect ratio
  • The first prototype should practice your design exactly as you have planned it
  • The second prototype can change the aspect ratio and repeat the design or practice a different chain weave 
  • Start by selecting your wire (match the gauge with your plan) The metal type you choose will be a color preference. If you want to anodize your metal, it is best to choose aluminum. Copper, Brass, and Nickel do not anodize.
  • Using a vise, secure a rod matching your inner diameter (pointing up)
  • Tightly wrap the wire around the rod, so that it coils in one compressed tube 
  • Using a wooden dowel of a similar diameter, cut through your coil using the jewelry saw (horizontal in the vise) [the end with the slit is facing you]
  • Save all of your rings in an envelope with your name on it
  • Follow the instructions for your chain design and make 2 inches of chain
  • Put the end of your chain on a paper clip and tape a flag with your name on it on the paper clip
  • Turn in two prototypes before making your final chain project
  • You won't keep your prototype chain stubs, but you will keep your final chain project.

Optional: Anodizing Metal

Metal is anodized in a solution of distilled water and baking soda. A black wire (-) is clipped to a metal plate at one end of the solution (the clips stay out of the water) and to the (-) larger battery terminal. A red wire (+) is clipped to scrap wire attached to your chain and to the smaller (+) battery terminal. If you have niobium or titanium metal, adding batteries will change the color. One battery is a bronze color. Two batteries is purple. Three is blue. Four is lighter blue. Five is a dull olive yellow. Six is bold yellow. Seven is dull rose pink. Eight is pinkish purple. Nine is blue. Ten is teal. Eleven is green. Twelve is chartreuse. If you have aluminum, you can dye the metal with a colored dye after anodizing to open the pores of the metal.
Picture
ANODIZED COLORS BY VOLTAGE

Chain

  • MAKE JUMP RINGS using the wire gauge and inner diameter rod specific to your design aspect ratio, coil wire around the rod using a vice to hold the rod secure. Cut the coil using the jewelry saw to create rings that close securely. If you cut them with snips instead, one end of the ring will be beveled and you would need to file every ring to create two flat ends. This is much more time consuming. 
  • WEAVE THE CHAIN by connecting rings with pliers. Use two pliers to open and close rings. Be sure to only open them by sliding the ends to the side, not pulling the ends away from each other. You are welcome to follow a chain design, like the designs featured above, or you can create your own weave. Your weave should repeat in a regular pattern.
  • OPTIONAL - if you want to change the color of your metal, watch the anodizing metal video. You can elect to anodize your chain once you have finished making the chain or after you have made the clasp. If you used aluminum wire, then you can go straight to the anodizing step. If you used copper, brass, or nickel wire, then you will need to electroplate your chain with aluminum first and then anodize the aluminum coating. Copper, brass, and nickel do not anodize.

Clasp

  • Create a functional clasp
  • Your clasp should have a shaped component and a soldered component.
  • A toggle clasp is an easy, functional clasp for a chain necklace. A hook and loop clasp is a functional clasp for a bracelet-length chain.
  • Your clasp can be wire formed into a hook with pliers (You can also flatten your hook with a mallet, if you wish to do so)
  • Your clasp needs to have a soldered jump ring to attach to the chain.
  • Polish your project with a polishing cloth

Finishing

Your project should be polished when you are finished with the chain and the clasp. You can use a polishing rag to shine the clasp and any rings that got tarnished. If you use the soldering station, you will need to pickle the project and then buff and polish the area that was heated by hand. Chains are dangerous at the buffing and polishing machines, especially when the links are not soldered together. Do not use the buffing and polishing machines for chains made with unsoldered links. 

TURNING IN YOUR WORK - 4 STEPS

Documenting your Project

  • Use a solid background (no distracting lines, shadows, table, or other stuff) - It is recommended to use the photo cube or the photo station
  • Use quality lighting (soft shadow from sculpture only)
  • Photo should be in focus, with the project centered (crop the photo, if needed to focus the viewer)
  • One photo of the project by itself
  • One photo of the project in use (also using a solid background - you can use the colored posterboard as a background for the person wearing a necklace or wallet chain, or just stick your arm in the photo cube for a bracelet - alternatively, you can go outside with a colored piece of paper and take a photo of your wrist in the sunlight)
  • OPTIONAL - if you choose to, you can edit the two photos together, but you need to have a consistent border between and around both images and they should be the same height

Written Reflection

Fill out the grading criteria form and answer the written reflection questions. Once you are finished with your email and flip video, turn in your written reflection with your project to the turn in box for your period.

Email Instructions

Click here for the email instructions - be sure you use your personal email and cc Mx. Ross to get credit for the email.

Flip Video Presentation Alternative

You can choose to present your work to the class, in person, or record a video of your work in advance of presentation day. Follow the flip instructions on the class Flip page. Use a photo or video of your work with audio narration of you talking about your work. Be sure to have your written reflection filled out so that you are ready to narrate your video. Your video will not have your face featured, but should have the artwork visually featured and audio of you speaking.

Grading Criteria